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Football Field

Football & Rugby Field Maintenance

A professional turf management program begins with the process of field inspection, because any really effective management program requires that the manager know what he or she is working with. Of course, it's always wise to begin with a soil test.
 
We recommend that every field get some sort of quick inspection at least every other week year-round--even during the off-season. At first blush, that might seem like a lot of work, but it doesn't have to take more than five minutes, and it can save hours of work once the season rolls around. During the season, each field should be inspected once or twice a week.
 
During the growing season, one of the first things to look for is mowing problems. Lots of field problems occur because the grass is allowed to grow too high, and then cut too short. That creates a couple of different problems. That kind of cutting spreads so many clippings on the turf that it literally kills the grass. And it also cuts off too much of each plant. Cutting off more than one-third of the plant weakens the grass and makes it less resistant to stress.
 
In addition to mowing height, look for clean shearing, because dull blades tear the grass and make it susceptible to disease. If the grass has a whitish cast after mowing, that's a sign of dull blades. A close examination of the grass will reveal that the ends of the blades are probably shredded instead of cut cleanly. (Of course, make sure the maintenance staff follows the manufacturer's directions for safely sharpening mower blades.)
 
Inspections should also include a quick look at the moisture of the field. If it's too wet or too dry, or if there is water standing on the field, it's better to deal with those problems during the off-season, so more gradual processes can be applied.
 
During wet weather, visual inspection shows how the turf is dealing with precipitation. During dry weather, push a screwdriver into the soil until some resistance is felt. Under normal conditions, the screwdriver should easily penetrate 4" to 6" into the soil. If not, the field probably needs watering.
 
A useful took for inspections of this kind is the "soil probe" or "soil profiler." These tools allow removal of a small core sample 4" to 6" deep, which can then be checked for compaction, thatch accumulation, and root development, in addition to soil moisture.
 
Look for the appearance of weeds in high-traffic areas of the field, especially in the center and bench areas. In the North, knotweed frequently appears in these areas, and is usually a sign of overcompaction. Relieving that compaction will allow the turfgrass to crowd out the knotweed.
 
If the entire field is rock hard, even away from the center and benches, arrange for aeration to relive the problem and foster healthy turf culture.
 
When performing an inspection, it's helpful to have a form for recording findings. (See Table 12.1, Sample Field Inspection Report.) Using a form of this type helps to make sure the inspection has checked all the field conditions, and it also allows the manager to develop a record of how the field responds to various conditions year-round.
 
12.5a Warm Season Maintenance
 
Table 12.2 is a sample maintenance program that can be tailored to fit the needs of any football field in the warm season zone. It's important to remember that this is only a sample of one maintenance program that is being used successfully on a particular field. In planning a fertilization program, the field manager is advised to consult the more detailed information found in Chapter 3, Fertility and Fertilizers.
 
Table 12.2. Warm Season Maintenance Program
 
Fertilization
The maintenance schedule detailed in Table 12.2 is used on the practice football field #1 at Mississippi State University. Like most collegiate practice facilities, this bermudagrass field receives heavy use during spring practice and the fall season. The field gets aggressive nitrogen fertilization from May through August to maximize the growth and recovery of the bermudagrass during its primary growing season. Water-soluble ammonium nitrate is the primary N source, and 21-2-20 and 8-24-24 are applied in mid to late summer to prepare the turf for winter. The N application in September is limited to 0.5 pounds per 1,000 square feet to minimize bermudagrass competition with the newly seeded perennial ryegrass. A final pound of N is applied with ammonium nitrate in October to meet the needs of the newly established ryegrass.
 
Aeration and Topdressing
The program outlined in Table 12.2 includes deep tine aeration with 12" long, 1" diameter solid tines in May, with a double pass over the middle of the field. The field is then topdressed with ¼" of sand and is dragged with a chain link mat to work the sand into the turf. In June, the field is aerated again, this time with 12' long, 1" diameter hollow tine equipment, then topdressed and dragged once more. These cultivation events are performed when the turf is actively growing, and recovery is enhanced with the application of fertilizer with high nitrogen rates. The field is dethatched in July if the thatch layer exceeds ½" depth. After dethatching, topdressing and dragging are performed as before. Under this regimen, the turf will have approximately 1 month for full recovery before fall practice begins.
 
Overseeding
Overseeding is performed in mid-September. To prepare for overseeding, the field is mowed at ½", then a three-way perennial ryegrass blend is applied with a rotary spreader. The overseeded field is topdressed and dragged; the topdressing promotes seed-to-soil contact and improves seed germination. The seeding rate is 20 pounds per 1,000 square feet, a typical overseeding rate for a high-use field, and thinner areas are spot-seeded in October to improve density.
 
Mowing
Bermudagrass sports fields are typically mowed at heights ranging from ¾" to 1½". (This particular field is cut year-round at 7/8" at the request of the coaches. If acceptable to the coaches using the facility, the cutting height should be raised to 1½" to promote winter hardiness in the bermudagrass.) Be sure to cut the turf as often as required to keep the 1/3 rule in effect. The MSU practice field is mowed 2-3 times per week throughout the active growing seasons of the bermudagrass and perennial ryegrass--even when the field is not in use during the summer. It is a common mistake by many sports field managers to neglect the field during the off-season, only to have the first practice or game date sneak up on them before the field is ready. The perennial ryegrass is mowed once every 2-3 weeks during the winter months, until more rapid growth resumes in March.
 
Watering
Bermudagrass will typically need 1" to 1½" of water per week during the summer months to maintain active growth. Application rates are reduced during the overseeding months as temperatures cool and watering requirements diminish. The watering program delivers deep and infrequent irritation, except following overseeding, when the turf is watered lightly and frequently in order to enhance seed germination.
 
Weed Control
A preemergence (PRE) herbicide can be used in the early spring for the control of summer annual weeds. However, most PRE herbicides also delay reestablishment of bermudagrass turf thinned by heavy fall and winter use. With this in mind, a popular strategy for PRE herbicides has been to apply the lowest labeled rate of the product in the early spring for initial weed control when the turf is still thin, then to promote turf density with a balanced but aggressive fertility program when the grass resumes active growth.
 
If the field has received little or no use during the winter and has high density, many southern football field managers do not apply PRE herbicides, instead controlling weeds by thickening the turf canopy through a balanced fertility program. Any weeds appearing in the turf can be controlled with postemergence (POE) chemicals such as MSMA and 2,4-D. (See Chapter 9, Turfgrass Stresses and Remedies, for more on PRE and POE herbicides.) If weed pressure has been low in the past, only spot applications of POE are recommended.
 
If PRE herbicides are used, time summer applications well in advance of any planned overseeding events. Otherwise, the perennial ryegrass itself will unintentionally be controlled by the PRE herbicide.
 
12.5b Transitional Zone Maintenance
 
In establishing a maintenance program for fields in the Transitional Zone, use the program appropriate for the type of turfgrass being used on the field. Maintain warm season varieties according to the warm season program, and cool season varieties according to the typical northern program.
 
12.5c Cool Season Maintenance
 
Cool season turfgrasses run through an annual cycle of strong active growth in the spring and early summer, with dormancy in the hottest part of the year, followed by another strong growing season in the late summer and fall. Many of the maintenance practices of cool season fields give consideration to this annual cycle. Table 12.3 is a sample of a maintenance program that can be tailored to fit the needs of any football facility in the North. For a sample maintenance program with cutting heights less than 2", see Chapter 13, Soccer, Lacrosse, and Field Hockey, Table 13.2.
 
Table 12.3. Cool Season Maintenance Program
 
Fertilization
As a general rule, cool season fields should get less than 30% of their annual nitrogen needs in the spring, with the remainder applied in the fall. Restricting N application at this time of year helps to prevent excessive shoot growth, which often comes at the expense of needed root growth. The first fertilization of the spring is a good time to apply a starter fertilizer such as 18-24-12, since the actively growing turfgrass plants will benefit from the additional P and K at this point in the year. The starter fertilizer also helps the process of getting new seedlings established.
 
During the summer, one application of ½ pound N and a full pound of K helps preserve plant health during the heat of the summer, and enhances the turf's ability to resist disease.
 
Applying the largest portion of the N in the fall contributes to strong root growth, and helps the turf recover from the stresses placed upon it by the competitive season. The very best time to apply N is right after the lat mowing of the season, when the grass is still green. During this period, shoot growth slows to a stop, but root growth continues. The extra N is absorbed and stored by the root system, and results in an early spring greenup, and a further enhancement of the turf's ability to withstand summer stresses.
 
Aeration
Aerating frequently, and varying the equipment, helps to make the turf stronger. In June, core the sides of the field only, staying off the middle and any other newly seeded areas where the grass plants are not yet mature enough to withstand the stresses of aeration. Later in the season, solid tine aeration loosens the soil without littering the field with cores.
 
Topdressing and Slit-Seeding
Performing these two processes together substantially magnifies the benefits to the turf, and provides the additional benefit of helping to level the surface. If the fall weather stays fairly dry, consider dormant seeding in late November or early December to give the turf a fast start in the spring. A wet fall may delay overseeding until the weather breaks the next year. (See Section 12-4 for more information on slit-seeding, or "overseeding.")
 
Mowing
The perennial ryegrass starts growing first in the spring, so keep mowing height at about 2" to let sunlight reach the Kentucky bluegrass base. When the bluegrass starts growing in May, raise the height by ¼", and raise it another ¼" in June to help the turf prepare for the summer's heat. In July, the grass should be higher than at any other time of year.
 
Three to four weeks before the first game, begin lowering the height to game height, remembering to reduce the height gradually by taking off no more than 1/3 of the grass plants at any one mowing. This gradual reduction in advance of the season will allow the turf to recover from the lower cutting height and be fully ready for play.
 
Keep mowing after the season until growth has completely stopped. If the grass is left too long, the risk of snow mold increases. However, scalping in the fall can expose the plant crowns during the winter, weakening the grass.
 
Watering
In the spring, water in light amounts at frequent intervals, to help establish any newly seeded turf. Gradually reduce the frequency and increase the amount applied at one time.
 
If the fall is dry, water with an eye on the weather forecast. It's usually better to let the turf be a little dry than too wet in the fall, since sudden rains before or during a game can lead to a quagmire.
 
Weed Control
As a general rule, blanket weed treatment on a football field is not a good idea. Because of the mechanical stresses placed on the turf, most fields need to be reseeded annually, which make preemergent applications unwise. Even if seeding is performed in the fall, the seed will not germinate until the spring, and preemergents will stop grass germination. Postemergents should be avoided until the new grass is fully established.
 
When following a good cultural management program, weed infestation will probably be minimal anyway. A spot treatment a few weeks before the first game will usually do the trick. (If special circumstances indicate a blanket treatment, refer to Chapter 9 for more on weed control.)
 
12.5d Program Variations (Practice Fields)
 
In the South, the program outlined in Table 12.2 should be followed on most native soil fields, game fields, and practice facilities alike. If the stadium field is overseeded, many field managers choose to overseed the practice field as well, to closely simulate game conditions.
 
In the North, if the facility is fortunate enough to have more than one practice field, it will be possible to practice the program recommended in Table 12.3, moving practices off the field during recuperation periods. For most teams, with one practice field and 100 practices to hold during the season, the turf will be bare in the middle of the field by the end of the season. Obviously, there's little point in fertilizing and aerating bare soil. A better strategy would be to apply one pound N each month from April to July, before the field is being heavily used. In combination with careful mowing and watering practices, this aggressive fertilization program should allow the field to hold up much better to the demands of the season.

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