Soccer, Lacrosse & Hockey

• Design
• Construction & Reconstruction
• Renovation
• Maintenance & Management Procedures
• Rules & Regulations

Soccer, Lacrosse & Field Hockey Renovations

Renovation is the process of repairing the damage of a competitive season, and assisting the recuperation process to prepare the field for the next season. Typical renovation steps include aeration, leveling, and planting new turfgrass. Renovation must also give special attention to the parts of the field--such as in front of the goals--where compaction and stress are greatest.
 
Northern fields can be overseeded in the fall, if the weather allows maintenance vehicles onto the turf. Late fall seeding is considered "dormant seeding," since seed will not germinate until the spring. (See Chapter 1, Section 1.6c for more on dormant seeding.) Fall seeding allows new growth to get an earlier start in the spring, and prevents the kind of immature turf that can result from weather delays in spring seeding. Dormant seeding can be especially helpful on practice fields, which get extensive use weeks before the first game. (In the South and the transitional zone, however, bermudagrass seeding should wait until the spring, because fall planting can lead to premature germination and subsequent winter kill of the seedlings.)
 
On northern fields, if worn areas have at least 75% turf cover, seed 100% Kentucky bluegrass at 2 pounds/1,000 sq. ft. If the coverage is less than 75%, use a mixture of 2 pounds of Kentucky bluegrass to 5 pounds of perennial ryegrass. Completely bare areas should get an additional 5 pounds of perennial ryegrass.
 
Before seeding worn areas, aerify aggressively to loosen compacted soil. (The areas most likely to be worn are also those most likely to be densely compacted by play, and it's very difficult for the turf to recuperate in extremely compacted soil.) Level the field by filling in low spots and divots with a similar soil. A slit-seeder can help to improve seed:soil contact.
 
Uneven fields can be improved by topdressing before seeding. First aerate the turf, then spread a thin (¼" to ½") layer of soil, smooth the surface with a leveling bar, then slit-seed to encourage seed: soil contact. (Topdressing a typical soccer, lacrosse, or field hockey field to a 3/8" depth takes 80 cubic yards of material.)
 
When renovating a field, consider whether adjusting the grade is necessary. If surface drainage has been inadequate during the season, perform a survey to determine the actual contours of the field and to determine whether a complete regarding is necessary. (If the grade is so far off that total regrading is necessary, follow the steps outlined in Section 12.3, Construction and Reconstruction.)
 
Many fields gradually become so worn and compacted in front of the goals or in other high-traffic areas that muddy spots become a problem. If the basic contours of the field are sound, these problem areas can often be treated without removing the existing sod. First, aerate the affected areas, aerating as deeply as possible to encourage drainage. Some aerators now on the market are designed to loosen compacted soil with minimal disturbance to the existing turfgrass. These are usually solid tine aerators with a vibrating and fracturing function, and they are ideal for applications like these heavily compacted spots.
 
Go over the affected area two or three times with the aerator, until the soil is loose enough that it will crumble. If the soil is so badly compacted that aerating won't loosen it to this consistency, it will probably be necessary to strip off the existing turfgrass, scarify the affected area, then apply new soil to the desired contours. Use new soil that's as close as possible to the existing soil to prevent layering. Place grade stakes to guide the recontouring process, then use a pulverizer, power rake, and level bar (or equivalent equipment) to regrade, before seeding or sodding the area.
 
One renovation technique for areas that are chronically compacted (such as those in front of the goals), is to install sod with at least ½: of thatch in those areas only. Sodding will typically yield better results than seeding, because the thatch layer provides extra protection against wear.